Reflections of the Dales Way

After about 16 weeks of training, and actually ticking off most of our planned miles, we felt far more prepared for a long-distance trail than we did last year (which, to be fair, went a bit sideways for 60% of us). This time, we had put in the work and felt good.

We caught an early train, partly tempted by rumours of a Hockney exhibition, only to realise it wasn’t in Ilkley after all. No matter. Arriving early felt like the start of a proper holiday. Ilkley’s high street buzzes, and the riverside park was in blossom, perfect for a gentle wander before we set off on the Dales Way.

Me, looking like a giant next to Debs.

We found the official start, then stopped for a healthy lunch and excellent coffee at Toast before checking in at the Black Hat. Dinner at Galo’s Kitchen was spot on and a great carb-load for the days ahead.

It was just Deborah and me for the first four days, with Katie joining for the final leg. The Dales Way took us from Ilkley to Bowness along rivers, over stepping stones, through villages and valleys, across open fell, and over more wall stiles than we could count. Many were narrow gaps at the top of stone walls, each with a small wooden gate and a very eager spring. Fun at first, then surprisingly tiring on the legs after a while.

Day 1: Ilkley to Grassington 19 miles

(actual miles 18.78, actual time 7 hours 19 minutes)

The sign warns those crossing that you may find the fast-moving water 'unnerving and disorientating. Yes, we did (and it was only slow-moving).

The sun was blazing—over 20°C, which felt downright tropical for the Yorkshire Dales. We followed the River Wharfe, shaded by trees, but by mid-morning we were melting. A stop at the Fairfield Friends Meeting House, a Quaker house dating back to the late 17th century, was a welcome break from the heat. An ice lolly stop at Bolton Abbey served as both a treat and a much-needed hydration point.

We crossed the stepping stones for the promised “slightly disorientating” fun, then stopped at the Cavendish Pavilion for lunch. After that, we rejoined the Dales Way, mingling with other paths leading to the Valley of Desolation, the Strid, and Simon’s Seat. This was the busiest stretch of the whole trail. At one point, a couple eating their picnic shouted over, “We saw you two in Addingham!” The power of the tutu!

We carried on past Burnsall and into Grassington, where they happened to be filming the Christmas episode of All Creatures Great and Small. A couple of cold pints at Grassington House went down very well before we headed up to our lovely room and enjoyed a fantastic meal to round off the day.

Day 2: Grassington to Oughtershaw 16 miles

(actual miles 17.2, actual time 8 hours 05 minutes)

Another scorcher. We tried to keep a steady pace—though not all that successfully—as we made our way through limestone country. We paused to chat with a dry-stone waller before the trail opened into wilder, more remote terrain. The heat felt fiercer out there, but so did the sense of space. We barely saw a soul.

Once we dropped into the valley, it was field after field, all enclosed by limestone walls and linked by wall stiles—each one a little different. Most had tiny stone steps and narrow gaps enclosed by small wooden gates, nearly all of them equipped with very assertive springs. After a while, the stile-climbing fatigue really set in.

Nothing better than an ice cream on a hot day.

We were properly relieved to reach Kettlewell for a much-needed break from the stiles, a caffeine injection, and an excellent ice cream. From there, we carried on, passing the George Inn at Hubberholme—sadly closed during the day—and trudging toward Beckermonds. I was absolutely convinced we’d arrived. Poor Debs had to break it to me that we still had a mile and a half to go. She was met with the full force of disappointed, overheated Claire.

Fueled by rage (me) and contained disappointment (Debs), we pressed on. When we finally crested the brow of the hill and saw Oughtershaw, we ran the last mile downhill to Ruskin Hostel Bunkhouse.

Linda, the owner, welcomed us warmly. She’d left us a delicious pre-cooked meal in the fridge and a pack of cold beers. We sat outside in the cooler evening air and enjoyed the peace and quiet.

Linda even popped our clothes in the wash for us (£2.50 a load—very fair), and by morning, we found them neatly folded on a chair. A great breakfast was waiting on a trolley, along with a packed lunch to take with us. We loaded up, said our goodbyes, and with a cheerful wave from Linda, we were off again.

Day 3: Oughtershaw to Dent 19 miles

(actual miles 16.77, actual time 7 hours 16 minutes)

Cooler skies gave us a much-needed break, and the views were some of the best of the whole trip. We joined the Pennine Way and headed over the fell rather than skirting around it. It actually shaved off a few miles and avoided the dreaded switchback, so we called that one a win.

One of the two major aqueducts along the way.

Later, while contemplating another shortcut, we paused to check the map. An older man stopped and asked if we needed help. He kindly let us know the shortcut road was closed due to a landslide and suggested we go up and over the fell again. I wasn’t exactly thrilled at the idea—but it turned out to offer some of the best views and underfoot terrain of the day.

The final stretch into Dent would have been glorious—if we hadn’t missed a sign and stuck to the road longer than we should have. It was punishing on tired feet. Note for future walkers: when you pass through the campsite, keep an eye out for a Dales Way sign on the left. We were so focused on picking up our feet that we didn’t spot the church spire until it was looming large—a very welcome sight by that point.

We made a beeline for the George and Dragon for a well-earned pint before heading to Dent Stores B&B, where we were welcomed by our lovely host. Cosy, friendly, and with a great little shop attached—it was the perfect place to rest up and refuel.

Day 4: Dent to Skelsmergh 20 miles

(actual miles 17.85, actual time 7 hours 47 minutes)

Narrow wall stiles with tiny spring-loaded gates on both sides.

We’d already started to lollygag a bit over breakfast, despite this being our longest day on paper. The Sherpa luggage transfer driver arrived at 8:30 am on the dot, prompting a quick scramble to finish packing our suitcases so they could be whisked away to our final destination. Debs managed to leave a few things behind, so ended up running the longest leg of the Dales Way with hair straighteners in her pack.

We wound through Sedbergh and into a mix of quiet lanes, pastures, and wooded tracks. The scenery began to shift as we left the Dales behind, and the scenery became more industrial as we ran alongside the train track and over the M1. By 4:30 pm, we’d been out for seven hours and still had five miles to go. Decision made—we detoured to Patton Bridge, called an Uber, and gratefully accepted a lift to the Castle Green Hotel in Kendal. No time for our usual post-trail pint—just enough to dash upstairs for showers before heading down for an excellent hotel dinner.

Day 5: Kendal to Bowness with Katie! 13 miles

(actual miles 14.86, actual time 6 hours 07 minutes)

Cheers to finishing!

We kicked off the final stretch from our hotel, picking up Katie in the centre of Kendal and setting off toward Bowness. The trail from Kendal to Bowness is surprisingly green and gentle—quiet lanes, rolling fields, and the odd glimpse of Lakeland hills to keep us going. That first sight of Windermere gave us a real thrill—we were nearly there!

Of course, “nearly there” took seemingly ages. But eventually, we rolled into Bowness, took selfies on the stone seat next to the plaque, and then made a beeline for The Angel for a celebratory pint, before the slow uphill trudge to our accommodation in Windermere (which, for the record, is not next to Lake Windermere—that’s Bowness).

About 20 minutes later, we arrived to a warm welcome from Anita, our lovely Dutch host at Archway Guest House. Quick showers, a change of clothes, and then out the door again for a brilliant celebratory meal at Hooked. A perfect end to a big adventure.

Reflections of the Dales Way: What we Learned

• We should have anticipated that the heat would slow us down a lot. That said, it did give us excellent excuses for ice lollies and ice creams.

• We should have reapplied sunscreen more often, especially on the bits where skin meets clothing—collar lines, visor band, short hems. Those sneaky spots definitely caught us out.

• We should have given our hosts a heads-up about the luggage transfer. Everyone was kind and helpful, but we sprang bag deliveries on them without warning.

• We should have been quicker over breakfast. Lollygagging felt lovely at the time, but slower starts meant walking in the heat and missing out on post-trail beers.

• And really, we should have started earlier on the hot days. The cooler morning miles would’ve been much more comfortable—and finishing earlier would’ve left more time to relax (and rehydrate properly, of course).

The Dales Way included everything we love about being out on the trail rolled into one. It gave us a bit of everything: remote hills, peaceful riversides, lively towns and villages, rolling countryside, and lots of wall stiles and little gates to clamber through.

The end/start of the Dales Way.

There was just the right balance of solitude and sociability, with tearooms and cafes to keep us fuelled along most of the way and packed lunches for the other legs, which covered more remote terrain (Oughtershaw to Dent and Dent to Skelsmergh). And, as always, it was the people who added something special: two American sisters in their 60s and 70s tackling their 14th UK long-distance trail; a couple who had completed the Pennine Way three times—despite one of them having only one functioning lung; and two friends steadily walking the Dales Way in sections over the year.

I hope you enjoyed my reflections on the Dales Way. For more long-distance musings, head to our socials to join the fun!

The Bit at the Bottom Where We Answer Stuff...

What’s the elevation of the Dales Way? Among England’s long-distance trails, the Dales Way is one of the gentlest. With a total elevation gain of around 1,950 metres (6,398 feet) over 130 km (80 miles), most reasonably fit walkers can take it on without too much trouble. However, you do have to traverse a lot of stiles!

How many stiles are there to navigate? According to Dales Way Association Newsletter, 38th edition, one informal survey recorded “51 kissing gates, 63 gates, 82 stiles, 54 wall stiles and 46 ladder stiles.” That’s nearly 300 crossings in total! While many of the stiles have since been replaced with gates to make access easier, you can still expect plenty of stiles along the way. If you do count them, please contact us. I'd love to know.

The journey itself is my home. — Matsuo Bashō